Before anyone sells you a motor, it should be tested. We diagnose the switch, wiring, ground, control board and motor in that order — then fix what is actually broken.
A power awning that will not move is one of the most commonly misdiagnosed problems on an RV. The motor is the expensive part, so it gets blamed first, but a large share of no-move calls come down to a corroded ground behind the sidewall, a failed wall switch, a tripped thermal cutout, or a control board that lost its limit settings after a battery disconnect.
We bring a meter, not a guess. We check voltage at the switch and at the motor under load, verify the ground path, confirm the board is sending the command, and only then condemn the motor. When a motor does need to be replaced, we source the correct unit for your brand and roller, install it, and reset the open and close limits so the awning stops exactly where it should.
We stock parts and know the quirks of the systems actually found on the road today.
Tell us the year, make and model of your rig, the awning brand if you know it, and what it is doing. A photo of the roller tube end cap or the arm helps us show up with the right parts the first time.
Driveway, RV park, campground, storage lot or job site — we come to you anywhere in the Valley. No tow, no dropping your coach at a shop for three weeks.
Our tech inspects fabric, arms, springs, hardware, motor and wiring, then walks you through what is failing, what can wait, and exactly what it costs before any work starts.
Most jobs are finished in a single mobile visit. Special-order fabric or a hard-to-source motor gets ordered the same day and installed as soon as it lands.
We cycle the awning fully, verify travel-lock and wind-sensor function, photograph the finished work for your records or insurance claim, and leave the site cleaner than we found it.
Photo slots reserved for job pictures from this service.
If you hear nothing at all at the roller, the fault is often upstream — switch, fuse or ground. A hum or a single click at the roller usually means power is arriving and the motor or gearbox is the problem. We confirm with a meter rather than symptoms alone.
Low voltage will not usually destroy a motor, but it makes it draw hard and can trip the thermal cutout or scramble the control board's saved limits. We check battery and charging voltage as part of the diagnosis.
On some models, yes — and on others a manual override crank is already built in. We will show you where it is and whether a conversion makes sense for your rig.
Veteran owned, fully mobile, and honest about repair versus replace. Call for a same-week on-site assessment.
Veteran owned · 100% mobile · Serving the entire Phoenix Valley